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Jun 10, 2014

Getting Started on My 70's Butterick Jacket



I don't know why I love this men's jacket pattern, Butterick 4362, but I do.

Maybe it's the Seventies vibe, the slightly blousy sleeves, or the inverted back pleat.



I started working on it yesterday and I hope to finish tomorrow.  It's a bit more complicated than it looks, assuming you don't think it looks complicated.

My fabric is that beautiful grayish-blue cotton-linen blend I bought a few months ago.  Cutting it took quite a while; these days I cut everything in a single layer, especially when the fabric has a visible grain line, as this one does.  It's always worth the extra effort.



I also needed to chose my thread color and to rethread my serger (which I used to finish a few of the inside seams).



I ended up opting for gray thread for topstitching (and there's a lot of topstitching on this jacket) even though it's barely visible.



I attached the sleeve open rather than in the round, as the instructions would have you do.  This way I could use the technique I learned from my menswear sewing class.  It worked splendidly.







I even used my Elnapress for the first time in a long time.





Here's the back pleat -- I love it, though I may stitch it closed about 3-4 inches up from the waistband to keep things looking neat.



I decided to keep the original Seventies collar.  I could have narrowed it, but I like it as is -- it makes more of a statement (which hopefully is not, Do you want to roller boogie?)





I still have to attach the cuffs, the inside yoke (which is stitched mainly by hand for some reason), and the inverted-pleat pockets and pocket flaps.  Also buttons and buttonholes.  I haven't decided what kind of buttons to use.  Any suggestions?





I think the completed jacket will look elegant.

Like I said, I hope to finish this tomorrow so I can start my pants.  I haven't decided yet whether to use the pants from the Butterick pattern, or the more Elvis-inspired pants from McCalls 5119.



And that's it!

Have a great day, everybody!

24 comments:

  1. I wish I could top-stitch like you! Buttons? Definitely metal, preferably a pewter tone, IMHO.

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  2. wait, wait, wait -- what's wrong with roller boogying??

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  3. I'm with Cheryl. Pewter would look nice.

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  4. I agree with Cheryl -- metal buttons. I'd go with a polished silver color in a shank style. It's going to be beautiful. And McCall's 5119 is a great look, both pieces. Those pants are very cool.

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  5. The jacket looks great. I can't wait to see it finished. I really want to see you rock those Elvis the Pelvis pants. I remember them from disco era. They are flattering to backside.

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  6. I concur with the pewter tone buttons, and I would love to see you make the Elvis pants to go with that jacket.

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  7. It's looking yummy. Another vote for pewter. And Elvis pants. Yow.

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  8. I'm definitely in for the Elvis pants all the way!

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  9. Just a question on those pants. Are you going to make the bell bottoms that cover your entire foot?

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  10. Those Elvis pants are pretty cool -- with that seaming they look like chaps!

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  11. I think you should do the Elvis style pants. For some odd reason I think you can rock them.

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  12. I'd love to know which of your sewing machines you stitch each project on.

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    1. I'm curious to about that too! Also, how do you stay so focused, especially when its a gorgeous day out?

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  13. Love the back pleat.

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  14. It's a great pattern. Loving that back pleat and the pleated pockets. Can't wait to see this finished.

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  15. Have you ever considered using pearl snaps instead of buttons? Might be an interesting treatment. BTW the name of the style of the jacket is an Eisenhower jacket. If you see pictures of Ike during WWII, he is almost always in this style jacket. As for the pants -- go for the Elvis style. I think they would look great on you!

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  16. i have a feeling i'm going to be terribly jealous of this jacket.

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  17. Two things: First, what is your technique for sewing on the waistband so you get perfect, even folding and stitching on both sides? Second, I would use tack buttons (jeans style), select from silvertone, brass, or copper.

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    1. I measure the width very carefully and make sure my seam allowances are accurate. That way everything should line up. Go slow!

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  18. Hammer in bachelor buttons, surely? :) The ones with the ring of stars. So classic denim jacket!

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  19. My 'thinking' cork board has a number of photos/tech drawings of pants' backside styles, McC5119 being similar to what I'm thinking about for next jeans. So of course I'm voting for you to try them next!

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  20. Peter, keeping with the 70's theme, I vote for jeans-style snaps/ buttons in silver tone. Although pearl snaps can be nice, they will give the jacket too much of a cowboy jive rather than a hippy jive - which, I think, is the style you are going for?

    Can't wait to see the pants! You're going rock 'em! Are you going to make them to go with the jacket?

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  21. Very nice classic jacket pattern. Can't wait to see the finished garment.

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